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Wave Parameters

Wave Parameters

The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...

Interference and Superposition of Waves

Interference and Superposition of Waves

When two waves of the same nature occur in the same region simultaneously, they result in interference. Interference of waves implies that the net effect of the waves is the sum of the individual waves' effects. However, it does not imply that the individual waves affect the propagation of other waves.
Interference occurs in mechanical waves, such as sound waves, waves on a string, and surface water waves. Mechanical waves correspond to the physical displacement of particles. Hence,...

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Travelling Waves

Travelling Waves

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Water waves, sound waves, and seismic waves are some examples of mechanical waves. For water waves, the wave propagation medium is...

Propagation of Waves

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Consider a scenario where a wave propagates from a string of low linear mass density to a string of high linear mass density. In such a case, the reflected wave is out of phase with respect to the incident wave, however the...

Tidal Forces

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The origin of Earth's ocean tides has been a subject of continuous investigation for over 2000 years. However, the work of Newton is considered to be the beginning of the proper understanding of the phenomenon. Ocean tides are the result of gravitational tidal forces. These same tidal forces are present in any astronomical body; they are responsible for the internal heat that creates the volcanic activity on Io, one of Jupiter's moons, and the breakup of stars that get too close to...

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Related Experiment Video

Updated: Sep 8, 2025

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing

Published on: February 13, 2018

Wind, Waves, and Surface Currents: Interactions at Mesoscales and Submesoscales.

Sarah T Gille¹, Fabrice Ardhuin², A B Villas Bôas³

¹Scripps Institution of Oceanography, University of California San Diego, La Jolla, California, USA;

Annual Review of Marine Science

|August 28, 2025

Summary

Understanding air-sea interactions is key for weather and climate. Simultaneous measurements of wind, waves, and currents are crucial for quantifying these complex exchanges.

Keywords:

air–sea momentum flux ocean surface currents remote sensing waves wind wind stress wind work wind–wave–current interactions

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Area of Science:

Atmospheric science and oceanography
Fluid dynamics and geophysical sciences

Background:

Air-sea exchanges of momentum and kinetic energy are critical for weather and climate.
These exchanges are mediated by complex interactions between wind, ocean surface waves, and currents.

Purpose of the Study:

To investigate the intricate relationships within wind-wave-current interactions.
To highlight the need for improved quantification of feedback mechanisms between these components.

Main Methods:

The study discusses the dependence of wind stress on wind-ocean velocity differences, wave height, and steepness.
It examines wave advection and refraction by ocean currents.
It considers the feedback of waves and currents on the atmospheric boundary layer.

Main Results:

Wind stress is influenced by wind-current velocity differences and wave characteristics.
Ocean currents affect wave propagation (advection and refraction).
Wave and current dynamics feedback to alter atmospheric boundary layer structure.

Conclusions:

Wind-wave-current interactions collectively shape ocean circulation, weather, and climate.
Significant knowledge gaps persist, particularly in quantifying the feedback loops.
Simultaneous in situ or satellite observations are essential for advancing understanding.