Natural-based antioxidants in cosmeceuticals: Extraction, bioavailability and skin ageing applications

This review offers an in-depth exploration of the bioactivities, extraction techniques, formulation approaches and practical uses of naturally derived antioxidants in anti-ageing skincare. A critical analysis of the literature was performed. Extracts from leaves, aerial parts, seeds, peels, fruits and barks exhibit potent antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, photoprotective and anti-tyrosinase activities. Natural-based antioxidants exhibit a wide range of bioactivities as neutralizing free radicals through mechanisms such as metal chelation and activation of cellular antioxidant pathways (e.g. Nrf2/ARE) and anti-inflammatory effects by modulating cytokines like TNF-α and IL-6 and promoting wound healing by stimulating collagen synthesis and bioactive compound production. Extracts from Mucuna species, Magnolia officinalis and Arbutus unedo, for instance, demonstrate anti-ageing efficacy by inhibiting enzymes such as collagenase, elastase and MMPs. Certain fruit and seed extracts provide photoprotection with high SPF values, while others-such as mushroom extracts and essential oils-display potent antimicrobial activity. Their bioactivity is often enhanced through fermentation processes, innovative delivery systems like liposomes, niosomes and polymeric micelles, which improve stability, bioavailability and topical effectiveness. Extraction methods for natural antioxidants-including aqueous, hydroalcoholic, ultrasound-assisted (UAE), fermentation-assisted and alternative solvent (NaDES) techniques-are crucial for recovering and stabilizing bioactive compounds. Emerging green technologies such as supercritical CO₂ extraction (SC-CO₂), subcritical water extraction (SWE), supramolecular solvents (SUPRAS) and cloud point extraction (CPE) offer sustainable and selective recovery of bioactives with reduced environmental impact. These bioactives address oxidative stress, UV damage and dermal ageing, offering multifunctional applications in cosmeceuticals, pharmaceuticals and nutraceuticals. However, challenges such as photostability, inconsistent bioavailability and regulatory hurdles persist. Future research focusing on synergistic formulations, clinical validation and microbiome-friendly antioxidants will drive their advancement in next-generation sustainable skincare.