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Thermal Induced Changes in Cuticle and Cortex to Chemically Treated Hair
C R R C Lima1, A C C Bandeira1, T S Martins2
1Institute of Physics, University of São Paulo, São Paulo, São Paulo, Brazil.
Biopolymers
|December 13, 2025
Summary
Routine cosmetic practices like chemical straightening and bleaching damage hair. Heating these treated hair fibers exacerbates damage, particularly in bleached and straightened hair, affecting both cuticle and cortex. This research aids cosmetic developers and consumers.
Area of Science:
- Hair science
- Cosmetic science
- Materials science
Background:
- Cosmetic practices like chemical straightening and bleaching can damage hair fibers.
- Understanding heat-induced damage is crucial for hair care product development.
Purpose of the Study:
- Investigate heat-induced damage in chemically treated hair (acid straightening, bleaching, or both).
- Clarify how combined chemical treatments and heat affect hair's external and internal structure.
- Provide insights for cosmetic developers and consumers on hair changes.
Main Methods:
- Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy-attenuated total reflectance (FTIR/ATR) and scanning electron microscopy (SEM) for external analysis.
- Ultra-small angle X-ray scattering (USAXS), small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS), and wide-angle X-ray scattering (WAXS) for internal structural analysis.
- In situ heating during X-ray scattering experiments to observe real-time structural changes.
Main Results:
- Heat causes damage to both the cortex and cuticle of hair fibers.
- Bleached and straightened hair shows more significant changes upon heating due to surface component loss.
- SAXS and WAXS revealed alterations in the hierarchical organization of hair structures upon heating.
Conclusions:
- Combined chemical treatments and heat significantly impact hair fiber integrity.
- Heat exacerbates damage in pre-treated hair, affecting both cuticle and cortex.
- Findings offer valuable information for developing protective hair care products and guiding consumer practices.
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