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The Effect of Blood Flow Restriction Training on Rock Climbing Performance, Forearm Blood Oxygenation and
Ben J Mckellar1, Jamie F Burr1
1Human Health and Nutritional Sciences, Human Performance and Health Research Laboratory, University of Guelph, Guelph, Ontario, Canada.
Abstract:
Blood flow restriction (BFR) training elicits cardiovascular and muscular adaptations across exercise modalities, but its potential to enhance performance in sport-specific tasks such as climbing remains unclear. This investigation focused on sport climbing, examining the effects of incorporating BFR training on performance and hemodynamic adaptation. Rock climbers (n = 25); age 26.3 ± 4.1, weight 66.1 ± 8.5 kg, participated in a 6-week intervention, training 2-3x per week with 3 sets of climbing to voluntary failure lasting 106 ± 28s across all exercise sets. A BFR and non-BFR (NBFR) group were included. The BFR group performed BFR hangboard exercise (cuff pressure 200mmHg), directly following each climbing set. Climbing performance was assessed on a standardized route with additional finger strength and endurance tests. A second test visit included hemodynamic measures using near infrared spectroscopy while recording blood pressure and heart rate during intermittent handgrip contractions (10s:3s duty cycle for 14 cycles) and post exercise circulatory occlusion (PECO). Climbing performance in the BFR and NBFR groups increased from 126s ± 26-169s ± 49 and 127s ± 43-162s ± 63 respectively p = 0.0001. Finger strength decreased in the BFR group while there were no changes in finger endurance in either group. For hemodynamic variables, only total hemoglobin showed an increase during rest phases between isometric contractions independent of group (p = 0.0004). Training had no effect on the PECO responses but did show decreases in blood pressure, but not heart rate, during the intermittent isometric handgrip contractions. Compared to traditional training alone, BFR training may have limited practical utility for augmenting small muscle mass strength-endurance performance in climbing.
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