Bilateral Deficit Using a Climbing-Specific Fingerboard Test and Its Association with Sport Climbers' Performance

Area of Science:

• Sports Science
• Exercise Physiology
• Climbing Performance Analysis

Background:

• The upper-body bilateral deficit (BD) describes the difference between unilateral and bilateral strength outputs.
• Understanding BD in climbers is crucial for performance optimization and injury prevention.
• Previous research on BD has primarily focused on lower-body movements.

Purpose of the Study:

• To quantify the upper-body bilateral deficit (BD) in recreational climbers.
• To investigate the relationship between BD and climbing-specific performance metrics.
• To evaluate the utility of a climbing-specific fingerboard test (CSFT) for assessing BD.

Main Methods:

• Fifteen recreational climbers (≥3 years experience) participated.
• Maximal isometric handgrip strength tests (HGT) and climbing-specific fingerboard tests (CSFT) were performed unilaterally and bilaterally.
• Fatigue resistance index (FRI) and endurance capacity test (ECT) were used as performance measures; paired t-tests and Pearson correlations analyzed data.

Main Results:

• Significant bilateral deficits were observed in both CSFT (-2.53%) and HGT (-2.05%), with no significant difference between the two tests.
• A positive correlation was found between CSFT bilateral deficit and endurance capacity (ECT) (r = 0.53, p = 0.044).
• Relative bilateral strength to body mass showed a strong association with ECT (r = 0.92, p < 0.001).

Conclusions:

• Greater upper-body bilateral deficit is associated with reduced climbing endurance capacity in recreational climbers.
• The climbing-specific fingerboard test (CSFT) is a reliable and predictive tool for assessing bilateral deficit in this population.
• Findings suggest that addressing bilateral strength asymmetries may enhance climbing performance, particularly endurance.