Ruby laser-assisted hair removal: an ultrastructural evaluation of cutaneous damage

Ruby laser-assisted hair removal is thought to act via selective photothermolysis of melanin in the hair follicles. Although initial clinical trials of permanent hair removal using ruby lasers are promising, the exact mechanisms of hair destruction and the potential damage to other structures of skin are not known. The aim of this study was to evaluate the cutaneous ultrastructural changes following ruby laser hair removal. Nineteen healthy Caucasian patients with dark (brown/black) hair were treated with the ruby laser and biopsies taken after 0, 2, 3, 5, 7, 14 and 21 days. Specimens were examined by light and electron microscopy. Laser-treated specimens showed widespread coagulation and charring of subcutaneous hair shafts. These obviously damaged follicles were randomly dispersed amongst intact follicles within the same treatment sites. Microscopic changes were also seen in the basal epidermis where melanin was concentrated, irrespective of any obvious macroscopic damage. A low level of inflammatory response seen up to 2 weeks after treatment always followed laser treatment. Suprabasal epidermal necrosis was only seen in patients with blister formation after treatment. Ruby laser irradiation results in selective damage to the hair follicles, with microscopic changes to the basal epidermis. The damage is probably compounded by the inflammatory response to the damaged hair. The normal appearance and distribution of collagen in the dermal layer supported the clinical evidence that laser-assisted hair removal, if performed correctly, does not lead to scar formation.