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Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers.

E Bárány1, M Lindberg, M Lodén

  • 1Department of Dermatology, University Hospital, Uppsala, Sweden. ebba.barany@acohud.se

International Journal of Pharmaceutics
|February 17, 2000
PubMed
Summary
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Emulsifiers in skin creams can affect skin hydration differently. While some increase transepidermal water loss (TEWL) on normal skin, others unexpectedly decrease TEWL on damaged skin.

Area of Science:

  • Dermatology
  • Cosmetic Science
  • Materials Science

Background:

  • Skin creams utilize emulsifiers for stability, but these ingredients can be irritants.
  • Understanding emulsifier effects on skin barrier function is crucial for product formulation.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To evaluate the influence of specific emulsifiers on normal and sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS)-damaged skin.
  • To assess the impact of emulsifiers on skin irritation using non-invasive measurements.

Main Methods:

  • Emulsions containing 5% emulsifiers (stearic acid, glyceryl stearate, PEG stearates, steareths) were prepared in a water/mineral oil base.
  • Emulsions were applied to normal and SLS-damaged skin under occlusion for 48h and 17h, respectively.
  • Transepidermal water loss (TEWL) and skin blood flow were measured non-invasively 24h post-application.

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Main Results:

  • On normal skin, five emulsifiers significantly increased TEWL, while skin blood flow remained unchanged.
  • On SLS-damaged skin, no significant changes in skin blood flow were observed.
  • Unexpectedly, three emulsifiers decreased TEWL in SLS-damaged skin.

Conclusions:

  • Emulsifier interaction with the skin barrier is complex and depends on skin condition.
  • Results suggest potential absorption of emulsifiers into the lipid bilayer, leading to varied effects on TEWL.
  • These findings have implications for formulating less irritating and more effective topical products.