A new model using liposomes that allow to distinguish between absorption and oxidative properties of sunscreens

We have developed a new model using liposome-encapsulated fluorescent probes, aiming at assessing both the physical and the biological protection provided by filter molecules such as those incorporated in sunscreens. The fluorescent indicator Indo-1 or 2',7'-dichlorofluorescin (DCFH) was inside the liposomes, in the aqueous inner compartment, whereas the filter molecules octyl methoxycinnamate (OMC), benzophenone-3 (BP3) or avobenzone, widely used in sunscreens, were incorporated into liposome membranes. When liposome suspensions were placed in a fluorometer cuvette exposed to an incident UV beam, the decrease of Indo-1 fluorescence as a function of filter concentration was related to the extinction coefficient of the filters. On the other hand, when liposome suspensions were exposed to moderate UVB doses allowing Indo-1 photobleaching, the remaining intact Indo-1 was linked to the protection provided by filter-containing liposome membranes. Finally, when liposome-encapsulated DCFH was exposed to UVB, the degree of photo-oxidation of the fluorescent probe into 2',7'-dichlorofluorescein accounted for the photoprotection provided by the filter contained in liposome membranes. BP3 was more potent and slightly less efficient than the other two filters in preventing Indo-1 fluorescence; all three filters provided a similar concentration-dependent protection of Indo-1 photobleaching, whereas only OMC was able to prevent the photooxidation of DCFH. The liposome model presented here has the advantage of combining both physical and biological parameters to assess the photoprotection provided by filter molecules, and the lack of photoprotection by two sunscreen molecules having a good filter capacity highlights the need for such a biological parameter when talking about the safety of sunscreens.