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Updated: Jun 22, 2026
11:26
Water in Oil Emulsions: A New System for Assembling Water-soluble Chlorophyll-binding Proteins with Hydrophobic Pigments
Published on: March 21, 2016
More durable make-up based on pigmented water-in-solvent emulsions
1Beecham Products, Brentford, Middlesex.
International Journal of Cosmetic Science
|May 27, 2009
Summary
New cosmetic formulations using water-in-oil emulsions with aluminium acylate gel offer improved makeup durability. These advanced makeup products resist heat, moisture, and abrasion while remaining easy to remove.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Materials Science
- Emulsion Technology
Background:
- Traditional oil-in-water emulsion makeup lacks durability due to sensitivity to heat, moisture, and abrasion.
- The oil film in conventional cosmetics breaks down under body heat and friction.
- Hydrophilic emulsifiers in current products degrade upon exposure to moisture.
Purpose of the Study:
- To develop long-lasting makeup formulations with enhanced stability and wear.
- To investigate the use of water-in-oil emulsions and volatile solvents for improved cosmetic durability.
- To evaluate the efficacy of aluminium acylate gel in stabilizing cosmetic emulsions.
Main Methods:
- Formulation of water-in-oil emulsions incorporating volatile solvents in the oil phase.
- Inclusion of a novel aluminium acylate gel to improve emulsion stability.
- Optimization of emulsifier choice, water-to-volatile solvent ratio, and pigment levels.
Main Results:
- Water-in-oil emulsion systems with volatile solvents demonstrated significantly more durable color effects on skin.
- The addition of aluminium acylate gel markedly improved both emulsion stability and skin durability.
- Successful development of cream eyeshadow and tinted foundation prototypes using the new system.
Conclusions:
- Water-in-oil emulsions, particularly with aluminium acylate gel, represent a significant advancement in long-wear cosmetic technology.
- This formulation approach overcomes the limitations of traditional oil-in-water emulsions for makeup durability.
- The developed technology offers enhanced performance for various makeup products, including foundations and eyeshadows.
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