Related Experiment Video
Updated: Jan 4, 2026
08:54
Measurements of Waves in a Wind-wave Tank Under Steady and Time-varying Wind Forcing
Published on: February 13, 2018
9.0K
Essential Skills for Superior Wave-Riding Performance: A Systematic Review
James R Forsyth1, Diane L Riddiford-Harland1, John W Whitting2
1Biomechanics Research Laboratory, Faculty of Science, Medicine & Health, University of Wollongong, Wollongong, New South Wales, Australia.
Journal of Strength and Conditioning Research
|November 13, 2019
Summary
Surfing performance hinges on mastering essential skills like the pop-up and landing. Physical characteristics and specific performance indicators are trainable, offering pathways for surfers and coaches to enhance wave-riding ability.
Area of Science:
- Sports Science
- Biomechanics
- Kinesiology
Background:
- Scientific literature on performing surfing skills is sparse, hindering evidence-based coaching.
- Understanding discrete wave-riding skills is crucial for safe and successful surfing maneuvers.
Purpose of the Study:
- To systematically review literature on wave-riding skills and associated performance characteristics.
- To identify factors influencing surfers' ability to successfully perform maneuvers.
Main Methods:
- Systematic literature search across PubMed, SCOPUS, SPORTDiscus, and Web of Science.
- Adherence to Preferred Reporting Items for Systematic Reviews and Meta-Analysis Protocols (PRISMA-P).
- Inclusion of ten studies with data from 299 surfers, predominantly competitive males.
Main Results:
- Pop-up and landing skills were the primary focus of reviewed studies.
- Performance indicators like peak forces and time-to-pop-up correlated with surfers' physical characteristics.
- These indicators influence the ability to successfully ride a wave.
Conclusions:
- The pop-up and landing techniques possess trainable qualities.
- Coaches and athletes can leverage these findings to improve surfing performance.
- Further research can build upon these trainable aspects for skill enhancement.
Related Concept Videos
01:11Buoyancy and Stability for Submerged and Floating Bodies
2.5K
In fluid mechanics, buoyancy and stability are key concepts for understanding the behavior of submerged and floating bodies. When a stationary body is fully or partially submerged in a fluid, the fluid exerts a force on the body known as the buoyant force. This force acts vertically upward through a point called the center of buoyancy, which is the center of the displaced fluid volume. According to Archimedes' principle, the magnitude of the buoyant force is equal to the weight of the fluid...
2.5K
01:10Wave Parameters
8.9K
The simplest mechanical waves are associated with simple harmonic motion and repeat themselves for several cycles. These simple harmonic waves can be modeled using a combination of sine and cosine functions. Consider a simplified surface water wave that moves across the water's surface. Unlike complex ocean waves, in surface water waves, water moves vertically, oscillating up and down, whereas the disturbance of the wave moves horizontally through the medium. If a seagull is floating on the...
8.9K
01:07Propagation of Waves
2.8K
When a wave propagates from one medium to another, part of it may get reflected in the first medium, and part of it may get transmitted to the second medium. In such a case, the interface of the two mediums can be considered as a boundary that is neither fixed nor free.
Consider a scenario where a wave propagates from a string of low linear mass density to a string of high linear mass density. In such a case, the reflected wave is out of phase with respect to the incident wave, however the...
Consider a scenario where a wave propagates from a string of low linear mass density to a string of high linear mass density. In such a case, the reflected wave is out of phase with respect to the incident wave, however the...
2.8K
01:14Wood Surfacing
299
Wood surfacing is a critical finishing process designed to smoothen the wood surface, enhance its dimensional accuracy, and make handling safer. This process compensates for potential shrinkage during the seasoning phase by marginally increasing the wood dimensions before surfacing. It also helps correct some distortions that may occur as the wood dries.
The equipment used in the surfacing process is a plane equipped with rotating blades. This tool efficiently smoothens the wood surface and can...
The equipment used in the surfacing process is a plane equipped with rotating blades. This tool efficiently smoothens the wood surface and can...
299
01:10Kinetic and Potential Energy of a Wave
6.1K
All forms of waves carry energy; this is directly visualized in nature. For instance, the waves of earthquakes are so intense that they can shake huge concrete buildings, causing them to fall. Loud sounds can damage nerve cells in the inner ear, causing permanent hearing loss. The waves of the oceans can erode beaches.
In mechanical waves, the amount of energy is related to their amplitude and frequency. In the context of the above examples, large-amplitude earthquakes produce large...
In mechanical waves, the amount of energy is related to their amplitude and frequency. In the context of the above examples, large-amplitude earthquakes produce large...
6.1K
01:02Equations of Wave Motion
8.2K
Mathematically, the motion of a wave can be studied using a wavefunction. Consider a string oscillating up and down in simple harmonic motion, having a period T. The wave on the string is sinusoidal and is translated in the positive x-direction as time progresses. Sine is a function of the angle θ, oscillating between +A and −A and repeating every 2π radians. To construct a wave model, the ratio of the angle θ and the position x is considered.
8.2K