Lip color diversity: An intricate study

Lip investigations and characterizations in the literature are less prevalent than for skin, particularly on the topic of color diversity. However, as the consumer demand increases for a nude lip makeup result, that is, shades close to the bare lip color, the identification and modification of lip color is essential for the cosmetic industry.

The objective was to highlight lip color diversity among three ethnicities (Caucasian, African and Hispanic), through the use of a spectral color measurement device especially adapted to the lip area, and to consider lip color ethnic specificities and overlaps.

The inferior natural lip color was measured with a full-face hyperspectral imaging system, SpectraFace (Newtone Technologies, Lyon, France), on 410 healthy women aged 19 to 68 (Caucasian French, Caucasian American, African American, and Hispanic American women). A hierarchical ascending classification, was deployed to determine clusters based on the lip colorimetric parameters along two strategies to identify the best statistical analysis to preserve the lip color diversity.

Lip color is a continuous color space, with great intra-ethnic and inter-ethnic diversity, especially for African American women in terms of chroma and lightness. Among the two strategies of data analysis, our two-step statistical clustering analysis yielded 11 groups (i.e., 11 lip tones), revealing an accurate representation of the scope of diversity, but also of the overlaps.

The 11 lip tones/colors could potentially serve as target shades for the development of a more diverse and inclusive range of lip cosmetics, such as nude lipsticks.