Smoky Characters in Wine: Distinctive Flavor or Taint?

The frequency of wildfires has significantly increased in recent years, posing concerns for many grapegrowers and winemakers. Exposure of grapes to smoke can result in wines with notable smoky notes, which in severe cases are described as "smoke tainted". However, smoky aromas in wine are not a priori quality defects but may be considered desirable in some styles of wines, as also widely found and appreciated in many spirits. In this perspective, we summarize recent research on sources and assessment of smoky sensory attributes in wine and provide an outlook on opportunities for managing excessive smoky characters.