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Preliminary Studies about Valorization of Acmella oleracea Bioactive Content in Modern Dermato-Cosmetic Applications
Delia Turcov1, Adriana Trifan2, Adrian Catalin Puitel3
1Faculty of Medical Bioengineering, "Grigore T. Popa" University of Medicine and Pharmacy, Mihail Kogalniceanu Street No. 11-13, 700454 Iasi, Romania.
Abstract:
The development of products with skin-protective effects has been driven by the increasing incidence of skin diseases that are exacerbated by increasing pollution, urbanization, poor living, working, fatigue, dietary habits, and general treatment. The ability of antioxidants to protect the skin from oxidative stress and its effects makes them one of the most important ingredients in today's cosmetics. This article aims first to characterize the plant extracts obtained from Acmella oleracea (A. oleracea) and then to evaluate the preliminary criteria for a new marketed product: the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of certain serums based on A. oleracea plant extract and hyaluronic acid. The extracts were obtained by liquid-solid extraction methods (maceration (M), ultrasound-assisted extraction (UEA), and a combined method between these two (UEA + M) using an aqueous solution of ethyl alcohol as the extraction solvent. The determination of the amounts of compounds with antioxidant activity highlighted the fact that the extract obtained from the whole plant of A. oleracea using maceration in conditions of S/L = 1:30, 20 days, and an extraction solvent percentage of 50% led to obtaining the highest amount of polyphenols (30.42 μg GAE/g), while using the combined UAE + M method under conditions of S/L = 1:30, 6 min + 20 days, and 50% extraction solvent led to obtaining the highest amount of flavonoids (32.88 mg QE/g). The tests performed on dermato-cosmetic serums based on the plant extract and multimolecular hyaluronic acid (HA) (1 HA with HMW-1.0 mDa-1.6 mDa; HA with LMW-10 kDa-200 kDa; and HA OLIGO, MW < 10 kDa) led to the conclusion that they exhibit structural stability, good shear behavior revealing a satisfactory texture, and high physical stability during storage. These results encourage the transition to in-depth testing, both microbiological and dermatological, as a final step in the consideration of a new commercial product.
Insights
This study characterizes Acmella oleracea extracts for cosmetic use, finding optimal methods for polyphenol and flavonoid extraction. The resulting serums with hyaluronic acid show promising stability and texture for skin protection.
Area of Science:
- Cosmetic Science
- Phytochemistry
- Materials Science
Background:
- Increasing skin diseases linked to environmental and lifestyle factors necessitate novel protective cosmetic ingredients.
- Antioxidants are crucial in cosmetics for combating oxidative stress.
- Acmella oleracea is explored for its potential skin-protective properties.
Purpose of the Study:
- To characterize plant extracts from Acmella oleracea.
- To evaluate the stability, antioxidant activity, and in vitro behavior of Acmella oleracea-based serums with hyaluronic acid.
- To assess preliminary criteria for a new cosmetic product.
Main Methods:
- Liquid-solid extraction (maceration, ultrasound-assisted extraction, combined) using aqueous ethyl alcohol.
- Quantification of polyphenols and flavonoids in extracts.
- In vitro testing of serum stability, antioxidant activity, and rheological properties.
Main Results:
- Maceration yielded the highest polyphenol content (30.42 μg GAE/g).
- Combined UAE + M extraction yielded the highest flavonoid content (32.88 mg QE/g).
- Serums demonstrated structural and physical stability, with satisfactory texture and shear behavior.
Conclusions:
- Optimal extraction methods were identified for Acmella oleracea polyphenols and flavonoids.
- Acmella oleracea and hyaluronic acid serums exhibit favorable preliminary characteristics for cosmetic applications.
- Further microbiological and dermatological testing is recommended for product development.
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