INDIVIDUAL ARTICLE: A Scientific Approach to Defining, Evaluating, and Treating Pre-Aging With a Cosmetic Regimen...

Patients experiencing signs of pre-aging in their 20s and early 30s desire solutions including topical skincare and cosmetic procedures to help preserve skin quality and function. Methods: A series of studies was conducted to define, evaluate, and treat pre-aging skin. A total of 180 subjects were assessed to identify clinical features of pre-aging across all Fitzpatrick Skin Types (FSTs). In vitro studies compared the response of young and old dermal fibroblasts to ultraviolet A (UVA) exposure and retinoid treatment and evaluated the beneficial effects of acetyl dipeptide-31 amide, for pre-aging treatment. A 12-week clinical study of 46 patients (mild to moderate photoaging) was conducted to assess the efficacy and tolerability of a skincare regimen to treat pre-aging. Skin glycation index was assessed via UV-fluorescence and cross-polarized images.

Clinical evaluation revealed that the earliest signs of skin aging were consistent across FSTs and included uneven skin tone, fine lines, and roughness. Aging turning points were seen in the mid-twenties in lighter FSTs and mid-thirties in darker FSTs. A reduction in elasticity began in the 20s and collagen content decreased progressively with age. Younger dermal fibroblasts produced more ROS after UVA exposure but were also more responsive to retinoids. Acetyl dipeptide-31 amide demonstrated anti-inflammatory and extracellular matrix (eg, collagen, elastin, etc) building effects. Clinical testing revealed an AM/PM regimen containing acetyl dipeptide-31 amide, sunscreen, and bakuchiol significantly improved early signs of pre-aging and reduced skin glycation index.

These data support the need for and benefit of early intervention to protect and preserve youthful skin.  J Drugs Dermatol. 2025;24:5(Suppl 2):s4-14. .