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Gardeniae Fructus Enhances Skin Barrier Function via AHR-Mediated FLG/LOR/IVL Expression.

Kaile Zong1, Fangni Zhou2, Kewei Xu1

  • 1Skin Health and Cosmetic Development & Evaluation Laboratory, China Pharmaceutical University, Nanjing 211198, China.

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Summary

Gardeniae Fructus (GF) enhances skin barrier function by activating the aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR), upregulating key proteins like filaggrin. This traditional Chinese medicine improves skin hydration and reduces sensitivity.

Keywords:
Gardeniae Fructusextracts derived from plantsnatural productsskin barrier functionskin protection

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Area of Science:

  • Dermatology
  • Pharmacology
  • Traditional Chinese Medicine

Background:

  • Gardeniae Fructus (GF) is a traditional Chinese medicine known for skin benefits.
  • The precise mechanisms by which GF improves epidermal barrier function are not fully understood.

Purpose of the Study:

  • To elucidate the mechanisms underlying GF's skin barrier enhancement.
  • To identify the active iridoids in GF and their molecular targets.
  • To validate GF's efficacy in vitro, in 3D models, and in human subjects.

Main Methods:

  • UPLC-MS/MS for iridoid characterization.
  • In vitro assays for cell migration, damage, and oxidative stress.
  • Proteomics, molecular docking, and molecular dynamics (MD) for target prediction.
  • Validation in HaCaT cells and 3D epidermal models.
  • 28-day randomized double-blind human efficacy study.

Main Results:

  • Nine iridoids were identified in GF.
  • GF promoted cell migration and reduced oxidative stress in vitro.
  • Proteomics and computational methods identified aryl hydrocarbon receptor (AHR) as a key target.
  • GF upregulated AHR, filaggrin (FLG), loricrin (LOR), and involucrin (IVL) expression.
  • Human studies showed increased skin hydration, reduced TEWL, and decreased erythema.

Conclusions:

  • GF enhances skin barrier function through AHR activation, leading to increased expression of barrier proteins.
  • GF demonstrates significant cosmeceutical potential for improving sensitive skin conditions.