Development and Characterization of Liposome-Based Dermocosmetic Formulations with Red Grape Pomace and Polygonum...

The use of antioxidants in the dermatocosmetic industry has become increasingly popular to help protect and stabilize other sensitive active ingredients, prolonging the effectiveness and durability of the cosmetic product. Grape pomace, as the main by-product generated through winemaking, and Polygonum cuspidatum, concentrate bioactive metabolites with high antioxidant activity. Hydroalcoholic extracts obtained from grape pomace (Merlot and Feteasca Neagra varieties) and the root and flower of Japanese knotweed, respectively, alone and in mixtures, were characterized, and preliminary assays were conducted for their incorporation in two gel-based cosmetic formulations. The characterization of the extracts revealed the presence of catechin, vanillic acid, caffeic acid, myricetin, resveratrol, and kaempferol. The hydroalcoholic extract of P. cuspidatum flower and root was found to have the highest content of total phenolic compounds (10.920 ± 0.268 mg GAE/mL, respectively, 4.751 ± 0.072 mg GAE/mL), and the highest antioxidant activity (expressed as DPPH Radical Scavenging Capacity, IC₅₀) by 28.04 ± 1.12 µg GAE/mL and 83.91 ± 1.13 µg GAE/mL, respectively. Catechin was the most abundant polyphenol found in pomace extract (687.87 mg/kg). The type and the concentration of the plant extract used in dermatocosmetic gel formulations influenced their antioxidant activity. Encapsulation of P. cuspidatum flower extract in liposomes prior to their incorporation into the gel formulation demonstrated the role of liposomes in enhancing the stability and modulation of phenolic compound delivery. It is worth noting that this dermatocosmetic formulation, which contains the flower extract of P. cuspidatum, was the subject of a pending patent application.