Redefining Red: Microbial Polyketides in Eco-Friendly Cosmetic Development
Juliana Barone Teixeira1, Pedro Garcia Pereira Silva1, Júlio Gabriel Oliveira de Lima1
1Department of Bioprocess Engineering and Biotechnology, School of Pharmaceutical Sciences, São Paulo State University, Araraquara, SP 14800-903, Brazil.
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The increasing consumer demand for environmentally and health-conscious cosmetic products has propelled research into natural alternatives to synthetic colorants, which are often associated with negative health impacts. This study explores the development of facial cream, shampoo, and multifunctional jelly stick formulations incorporating lyophilized polyketide azaphilone red colorant produced by Talaromyces amestolkiae. The lyophilized extract was characterized by their antioxidant activity, cytotoxicity, and influence on the physicochemical properties of cosmetic formulations. At concentrations of 1 and 5 wt %, the extract demonstrated antioxidant capacity, reducing ROS levels by over 75% under oxidative stress while maintaining cell viability above 60%. Formulations containing the lyophilized extract exhibited suitable pH values, with rheological and texture analyses confirming their desirable application properties. Texture profile analysis indicated improved spreadability due to reduced adhesiveness and hardness, particularly at 1 wt % lyophilized extract concentration. Stability assessments revealed that color degradation was primarily influenced by temperature, with UV light having a lesser effect. The SWOT analysis identified microbial colorants as promising sustainable alternatives, despite current limitations in stability and regulatory hurdles. This study presents the potential of the lyophilized extract containing natural polyketide colorant produced through bioprocess as an eco-conscious alternative in cosmetics, offering both functional and environmental advantages over conventional synthetic dyes.
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