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Exploration of Natural Adsorbents for Applications in Pollution-Reducing Cosmetic Formulations
Greta Kaspute1, Alma Rucinskiene1, Arunas Ramanavicius1
1State Research Institute Center for Physical Sciences and Technology, Sauletekio Av. 3, LT-10257 Vilnius, Lithuania.
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Human skin and hair act as multifunctional barriers but are highly sensitive to environmental pollutants originating from air, water, and cosmetic products. Epidemiological studies report that exposure to particulate matter (PM2.5-PM10), nitrogen oxides (NOx), and volatile organic compounds increases the risk of skin and hair disorders. For instance, women in high-traffic areas (N = 211) show significantly more pigment spots and nasolabial wrinkles compared to those in rural areas (N = 189), indicating accelerated skin ageing. Children aged 9-11 exposed to PM10, benzene, and NOx exhibit increased incidence of atopic dermatitis. Systemic exposure to dioxins causes chloracne, while co-exposure to polycyclic aromatic hydrocarbons (PAHs) and UVA radiation elevates skin cancer risk. Psoriasis flares are associated with mean pollutant concentrations over the 60 days preceding flare events in 957 patients, and hyperpigmentation prevalence increases in populations exposed to traffic-related PM and ROS-inducing pollutants. Hair loss is linked to oxidative stress from PM and PAHs absorbed on hair fibers, with in vitro studies showing keratinocyte apoptosis in scalp hair follicles. This review evaluates natural adsorbents such as zeolites, clays, activated carbon, and polyphenol-rich plant extracts for anti-pollution cosmetic formulations. Adsorption capacities range from 60 to 150 mg·g-1 depending on the pollutant, with removal efficiencies of 30-55% in model topical systems. Mechanisms include ion exchange, surface adsorption, hydrophobic interactions, and radical scavenging. Incorporating 2-5% w/w of these adsorbents in cosmetic formulations significantly reduces pollutant deposition on skin and hair. These findings support the development of evidence-based, sustainable anti-pollution cosmetic strategies that quantitatively mitigate environmental stressor effects.
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