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Updated: Jun 18, 2026

Imaging Denatured Collagen Strands In vivo and Ex vivo via Photo-triggered Hybridization of Caged Collagen Mimetic Peptides
Published on: January 31, 2014
A novel L-ascorbic acid and peptide conjugate with increased stability and collagen biosynthesis
Ho-Il Choi1, Jong-Il Park, Heung-Jae Kim
1Department of Biochemistry, College of Life Science and Biotechnology, Yonsei University, Seoul, Korea.
A new stabilized ascorbyl pentapeptide (SAP) offers enhanced stability and efficacy for cosmetic and wound healing applications. This novel compound promotes collagen biosynthesis and inhibits melanin synthesis without cytotoxicity, outperforming traditional vitamin C and peptides.
Area of Science:
- Cosmeceutical science
- Dermatology
- Biochemistry
Background:
- L-ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) and peptides are crucial for collagen biosynthesis in cosmetic and pharmaceutical applications.
- The instability of these compounds in water limits their formulation and efficacy.
- Developing stable, effective ingredients is essential for advancing cosmeceuticals and wound healing therapies.
Purpose of the Study:
- To develop a novel, stabilized compound combining ascorbic acid and peptide functionalities.
- To evaluate the stability, cytotoxicity, and biological activity of the new compound, Stabilized Ascorbyl Pentapeptide (SAP).
- To assess SAP's potential as a cosmetic ingredient and wound healing agent.
Main Methods:
- Synthesis and characterization of Stabilized Ascorbyl Pentapeptide (SAP).
- In vitro assessment of SAP's physical stability in aqueous solutions.
- Evaluation of SAP's inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and melanin synthesis.
- Cytotoxicity testing of SAP at high concentrations.
- Comparative analysis of SAP's ability to promote collagen biosynthesis against L-ascorbic acid and KTTKS peptide.
Main Results:
- SAP demonstrated significantly higher physical stability in water compared to L-ascorbic acid.
- SAP exhibited comparable inhibitory effects on tyrosinase and melanin synthesis to L-ascorbic acid.
- SAP showed no cytotoxicity even at a high concentration of 5 mM.
- SAP significantly enhanced collagen biosynthesis, surpassing the effects of L-ascorbic acid or KTTKS peptide alone.
Conclusions:
- Stabilized Ascorbyl Pentapeptide (SAP) is a highly stable and effective cosmeceutical ingredient.
- SAP's potent collagen-boosting and melanin-inhibiting properties, coupled with its safety profile, make it a promising candidate for cosmetic formulations.
- The compound's demonstrated efficacy suggests potential applications as a novel wound healing agent.
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